Fang Fang, the hip contemporary Asian restaurant and bar at LKF Tower in Central, welcomed a new executive chef, Wong Tai Po, in August. Chef Wong, who cut his teeth at London’s hottest restaurants such as Sushi Samba, draws from influences throughout Asia.
While the restaurant can aptly be described as Asian fusion, it is very Chinese in its portion sizes. Here's the rundown of the Chinese family-style banquet menu we sampled, as well as Foodie’s favourites of the night.
The classics
An elevated take on Chinese-restaurant mainstays
Wasabi prawns with peas
To start was the deep-fried silken salt and pepper tofu ($68) with spicy garlic-chilli sauce. Crunchy and salty, fried tofu is almost impossible to get wrong.
An upgrade from the standard walnut shrimp, the wasabi prawns($98) were juicy and had a nice bounce. The addition of horseradish kept them from being too cloying and the peas were a nice touch to keep to the “green” theme.
The slow-cooked apple-smoked pork ribs($225) were tender and juicy, reminiscent of good, ol’ American barbecue. The tang of the sauce paired nicely with the garlicky Asian pesto and grated daikon, which kept things from being too heavy.
Fang Fang’s Charcoal ($38 for 2), steamed truffle and mushroom bao, proved why the restaurant is always packed for dim sum. Warm, soft and hearty, these are a steal for the price.
The beloved
The Foodie-approved must-orders
Fang Fang signature roasted duck
In a city where roast fowl hang at many a shopfront, the Fang Fang signature roasted duck ($325 for ½ duck; $595 for whole duck; $1,288 with caviar) definitely held its own. Gorgeously roasted and satisfyingly crisp, the meat was soft without being fatty and the skin had a tea-like flavour to it. The assortment of garnishes – raw garlic, two types of sugar, cucumber, chilli sauce, duck sauce – was a nice touch, and we were recommended to pair the wraps with brown sugar and garlic for a spicy-sweet kick. The wraps were also unique – crêpe-like rectangles whose eggy sweetness did a good job of soaking up the gaminess of the duck. Side note: a Foodie taster polished off eight pieces on her own...
The honey grilled sea bass ($288) was a highlight. The fish was melt-in-the-mouth soft. Sweet without being too cloying, this dish didn’t have any of that “fishy” aftertaste and would satisfy even picky seafood “seagans”. The pickles, rice crackers and lotus chips provided a nice range of crunch and acidity.
Miso soup cappuccino
The miso soup cappuccino ($55) skirted the line between love and just the right amount of wacky. The addition of coriander gave a noticeable peppery depth, different to the typical kombu-based miso soups served at Japanese restaurants. What elevated this into our love category was the use of soy-milk foam, which gave it a tonkatsu-like richness without feeling too heavy.
The wacky
Dishes that would make you look and think twice
Though beautiful to behold, the watermelon foam was a bit strange with the Hokkaido scallops ($140). The pickled watermelon – though great on its own – overpowered the delicate scallop sashimi, giving the mollusc a tart taste.
Fang Fang salad
Perhaps more fitting for a Californian brunch than a Chinese restaurant, the pretty avocado and quinoa Fang Fang salad ($88) was nevertheless very good – crunchy and tart – and was the perfect light accompaniment.
While the presentation was remarkable, the Chilean sea bass kataifi($110) was itself a bit confusing. Kataifi – a traditional Greco-Turkish dessert made of shredded phyllo dough – is quite similar to the crispy exterior of wu gok (fried taro dumplings), but the oiliness of the fried pastry marred the innate sweet flavour of the sea bass, giving it a greasy fish-and-chips taste. While the beetroot yoghurt was enjoyable and pretty to look at, the spicy mayo overwhelmed the dish and made it feel heavy.
Kuromitsu buta kakuni
What Fang Fang excels in, however, is roasted and braised meats. The kuromitsu buta kakuni ($128) was no exception. The addition of Japanese black honey vinegar to the braised buttery pork belly received two thumbs up all around the table.
Cocktails
Another noticeable element at Fang Fang is the extensive bar menu, overseen by award-winning bar manager Gagan Gurung, who incorporates everything from traditional Chinese herbs to seashells in his creations.
Innovation and culture are definitely two words that aptly describe the bar. At Fang Fang, it’s clear that the drinks aren’t taking a back seat to the food, and the constantly changing menus – such as the beautiful Ikebana series – are quite fun.
Fang Fang will be launching a Chinese zodiac cocktail series soon, so stay tuned for Foodie’s update!
8/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, 2983 9083, click here to book now
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