Rising up to the seventh floor of Lan Kwai Fong’s premier landmark of California Tower, guests arrive at airy Porterhouse Seafood & Steak restaurant with its sleek decor against the backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows. Warm colours and soft lighting evoke a soothing feeling, perfect for intimate evening dining.
While the classic steakhouse has long been renowned for boasting a large selection of high-quality beef, the new seafood-driven surf-and-turf menu is inspired by Italian Group Executive Chef Angelo Vecchio’s passion for cooking fresh and sustainably sourced seafood merged with vibrant Mediterranean flavours.
“Cheers to pretending Monday night is Friday evening!” After clinking glasses of Prosecco, we kick-started our dinner with the grand seafood tower ($988 for 2), presenting a head-spinning array of superior lobster, crab, sea urchin, prawns and oysters sourced from around the globe. Every bite of the fresh and succulent seafood was the best cure for my Monday blues. As a seafood fanatic, I was truly overwhelmed.
Our marvellous cold starter was followed by the pan-seared Galician octopus ($280) on a bed of mashed potato, together with ’nduja spicy sausage, squid-ink aioli and caper dust.
As our glasses were filled with more wine by the diligent server, the Spanish-style lobster salad ($218) with Datterini tomatoes, raspberry vinegar, pickled red onion and thinly sliced celery, crowned with celery sorbet, raised my eyebrows – in a good way. Often seen as a culinary essential for fine dining, the Boston lobster meat was skilfully poached to maintain its firm texture and then dressed in lemon juice and salt.
The fresh hamachi carpaccio ($198; not pictured), served with a zesty passion-fruit dressing and basil oil and garnished with ikura, was unquestionably delish. My taste buds were revived, just like I’d caught the tail end of summer.
The carnivores at our table were on the edge of their seats as we switched to the meat-centric portion of the surf-and-turf menu, starting with the luscious 35 days dry-aged Angus beef tartare ($258), served with truffle crisps. Beautiful drops of cured egg yolk nestle on the surface of the finely chopped beef that’s seasoned with soy sauce, shallot, chive and black pepper. The melt-in-the-mouth texture is beyond buttery. Everyone at our table was also raving about the truffle crisps and couldn’t stop munching on these crunchy bites, adding a textural contrast to the beef tartare. If only the potato chips I snack on at home whilst binge-watching Netflix were as delizioso as these truffle crisps...
As the night grew longer and our table was indulging in the pleasure of savouring great food with great company, the grand arrival of the Australian Mayura Wagyu porterhouse ($1,880) wowed us, and our excitement was heightened to a new level. We were told that the full-blood Wagyu cattle are fed on grass and chocolate, and the meat is well known for its luxurious tenderness. The generously thick cut of premium beef was perfectly charred on the outside whilst maintaining a light pink centre, with a superb balance of fat and tender meat. This lip-smacking steak is truly a wonderful combination of the award-winning beef and the chef’s culinary technique, and its exorbitant price tag is easily explained.
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Just when we thought our fabulous evening was winding down, a distinctively aromatic gourmet mac ‘n’ cheese ($78) landed on our table, and my jaw dropped instantly. Never had I imagined a surf-and-turf dinner would include this gloriously cheesy and sinfully delicious classic comfort-food dish.
Most believe that the perfect ending to a great dinner is a sweet treat. Since fig is the queen of the season, we shared the guilty pleasure of fig tart with vanilla cream and osmanthus honey ($88), along with a slice of raspberry and yoghurt cream cake ($88).
Verdict
Porterhouse’s sophisticated surf-and-turf menu is extraordinary, and it’s obvious that culinary team pour their hearts into catering to every diner’s taste. Options for lunch and brunch are available if you’re not ready to splurge on dinner. Since travel this holiday season is highly unlikely, I'll gladly return to Porterhouse for another lavish meal with family and friends.
7/F, California Tower, 30–32 D’Aguilar Street, LKF, Central, 2522 6366, book online
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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