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MIÁN is the Chinese name for Cotton Tree Drive, the location of landmark hotel The Murray, where this new contemporary Chinese restaurant has opened.
MIÁN pays homage to eight Chinese cuisines, embracing the traditions and history whilst merging them in creative new dishes. Chef Ronald Shao is behind the culinary delights. He has over 40 years’ experience in Chinese cooking, including Cantonese, Sichuan and Shanghainese cuisines, and has worked at hotels in India, Saudi Arabia, Macau and Singapore.
Once the restaurant is in full swing, I imagine the atmosphere will be buzzing. The decor is stylishly elegant, and the furniture is very comfortable, typical of hotel dining spots.
Here are some highlights from the very extensive menu:
Boneless silky fowl & chicken fillets ($188). I didn’t know whether to eat it or start a game of chess with this dish, which features two types of chicken in one square, sitting on top of dan dan sauce. The mix of cold chicken and spicy sauce is a traditional Sichuan flavour combination. I’m not a big fan of rubbery chicken skin, so this was my least favourite dish of the tasting.
Sichuan-style poached tiger grouper with assorted chillies ($1,288). This was off the chain! The flagship dish of Sichuan had me at begging like Oliver, “Please, sir, can I have some more?” The broth is made with bones from river and ocean fish, and it contains different types of Sichuan peppercorn, including white and Da Hong Pao, to give it a special kick. Each chilli and peppercorn is added to the soup at a different stage. The main ingredient is the delicious wild tiger grouper, and the soup is swimming with it.
Sweet-and-sour pork with freeze-dried pineapple ($268). This iconic Cantonese dish is traditionally served with chunks of fresh or tinned pineapple. However, Chef Shao has chosen to freeze-dry pineapple bits, which at first made me sceptical. However, this technique means you get to taste both the pork and the pineapple in a single bite. I’m converted now! Each piece of black pork is coated with an acidic, sweet glaze, not floating in a plate of sauce.
Verdict
The Murray has a winner here – the food at MIÁN is innovative and prepared expertly. I will be returning soon and hope to see the place packed.
UG/F, The Pavilion, The Murray, Hong Kong, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 3563 6405, book online
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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